William ascended the front stairs of the Shepheard Hotel. Twisting his way
through the crowd of patrons and porters weighed down with baggage, he moved towards the terrace restaurant. Arriving early, not wanting to miss out, he looked for a table.
The outdoor area was more casual than the interior dining room, but still breathed an air of old-world aristocracy. Before the war, the hotel was a favourite with adventurers, archaeologists, and wealthy travellers. William never tired of the establishment. Scanning the bustling scene of diners clustered around tables dressed in starched white cloths and shiny silverware, he began to lose hope. Then a waiter approached.
“May I help you sir?”
“Yes, would you have a table for two?” holding two fingers in the air.
The waiter gave a slight bow and said, “Follow me, Sir.”
William followed the waiter through the maze of diners and large, potted palmsto a table for four in the far corner.
William sank into the comfortable rattan chair. “Perfect.”
“Would you like a drink sir?”
“Not yet. I’m expecting a friend. Thank you, anyway.”
The waiter gave another little bow and retreated.
Despite the table being at the back, William still had a reasonable view. Pasha Street was a dusty strip that separated the opulence of the hotel from the heaving heart of Cairo. Through gaps between suited men, well-dressed ladies and military personnel, William watched the trinket sellers, donkey
boys and dragomen who eked out a living on the opposite pavement. The
outdoor dining area was a haven from the harassment he would endure once he crossed that barrier. Even those who dined close to the rails were often accosted by street vendors. He thought it was a fascinating place where Lily could experience street life from afar.
William spent the last two weeks anticipating her arrival. He knew from Cis’ letter that Lily had joined the Australian Nursing Corps but had no idea where she would be posted. He was so pleased she was stationed in Egypt,
rather than Europe. Only a few nights ago, he attended a lecture by Reverend Waddy1 about the situation in France. He still shuddered when he recalled the newsreel projected on the screen. The Reverend’s account was no less dire. It was certainly no place for young Lily who had never been away from Australian shores.
Tapping his fingers to the tune tinkling from a piano, William kept diverting his attention towards the street. Meanwhile, his thoughts revisited the moment he saw Lily in his ward the previous afternoon. Overwhelmed at seeing family for the first time in three years, he found himself lost for words. Although her visit was fleeting, or as she said, “A quick hello, to let you know I’ve arrived,” she lifted his spirits. He hoped her work schedule would allow them to spend more time together before his departure.
With another glance toward the street, three identically dressed ladies caught his attention. By the time it registered they were nurses, they were out of view. The stairs were not visible from the table, so he thought perhaps he should go and look.
William peered down the length of the rails and saw the girls, wearing the grey dress uniforms of Australian nurses, alighting the steps. He noticed the wisps of auburn hair caught in the sunlight before he saw the face shaded by the hat. Lily wasn’t as petite as Cis; however, her hair and face were unmistakably from the same genes.
With his back to the street, William remained standing. A moment later, she
appeared. Turning away from her companions, Lily looked out across the dining area. William watched her rise on her toes and stretch as she tried to see around and beyond the obstacles that blocked her view. He waited, amused at her obvious frustration. Finally, he waved and caught her attention. Grinning, she spoke to her companions, who then walked into the hotel.
“Hello, Will,” she beamed, rushing over to him, while, at the same time, loosening the long scarf ties of her hat. “You had me worried for a bit.”
William laughed as he leaned down and kissed her on the cheek. He then guided her over to the table. “My dear girl, it’s so good to see you again.”
He pulled out the chair. “Please, take a seat.”
The large rattan chair seemed to engulf her diminutive frame. Straightening her long skirt, she placed her purse on her lap. Then, she removed her hat and placed it on the chair beside her.
Lily kept looking around the restaurant as her hands checked her long, upswept waves for any runaway strands. Satisfied, she clasped her hands together and looked up at William, “This place is truly amazing.”
“I thought you might be impressed,” William said. “And I’m glad you didn’t brave the streets of Cairo on your own. Would your friends like to join us?”
“No, they’re off to have their hair washed.”
William laughed. “They’re what?”
Leaning forward, Lily lowered her voice. “There are no decent bathrooms at the Citadel. From being at sea, our hair feels like steel wool.”
“You know, from the salt air,” she added, reading William’s quizzical expression. “Anyway, we can have our hair washed here for a reasonable price. I’ll join them later.”
“I see,” he said, trying not to show his ignorance of the quirks of young female company. Out of the corner of his eye he spotted the waiter approaching their table.
“Ah, my saviour!” William said, relieved to change the course of conversation.
Lily shot her brother-in-law a questioning glance, which he ignored.
After perusing the menus, they ordered sandwiches and tea.
“Shukran,” William thanked the waiter who gave a little bow and left.
“Do you speak their language?” Lily asked.
“Just the basic greetings. You pick up those words quickly.”
“Cairo is so fascinating.” Lily’s face became animated. “I can’t wait to explore.”
“It is an interesting city. Plenty to see. But a word of caution….”
“Don’t worry about me, Will Lyons,” Lily interrupted. “I can take care of myself.”
“I have no doubt you can,” William said, finding her feistiness rather refreshing. “However, Cis will never forgive me if something happens to you, while I’m still here. Nor will your father, for that matter.”
“Hmm.” She huffed. “I don’t need another lesson. The Matron at the Citadel has already lectured us.”
“Good, I hope you listened. That reminds me, how’s your accommodation?”
Lily rolled her eyes. “Crowded, I must say. Four of us sharing a very, small
room.”
“That’s no good,” William frowned.
“There isn’t enough space for all of us. I was told that in the warmer months, some girls were forced to sleep on a roof top.”
“That’s very worrying, Lily. Let’s hope that doesn’t happen to you. For a start, the mosquitoes would eat you alive.”
“I’m hoping not,” Lily sighed.
“So, when do you start work?”
“Tomorrow morning. I can’t wait to get into it.”
“You might change your mind, once you get a taste of grim reality,” William said in a serious voice.
“We’ll see. Enough about me. What about you? Cis worries you know. She
doesn’t say as much, but she does.”
Lily paused, looking at her brother-in-law, then added, “You look terribly thin.”
“I’ve had my share of hurdles to cross. The latest being malaria.”
Lily nodded as William described the preceding months spent in
the hospital.
“Tis good news you’re going home, then? Cis and the boys will be relieved when they finally see you. On home soil.”
William felt a lump in his throat. “It’s been a long time coming,” he finally said. “Only two weeks to go.”
Their conversation was interrupted by the waiter who brought their lunch.
William advised, “When dining out in Cairo, you are best to eat at a hotel where you can order western food. Eating from street sellers can be risky, particularly with the flies.”
Lily finished a sandwich triangle, then said, “We have all been given a booklet about such things.”
“Not the book written by Charles Beane?”
“Not sure.”
“Dysentery is a huge problem here. As is malaria. Mosquitoes at dusk are
ferocious.”
“We do have nets in our quarters.”
When they finished their sandwiches and drained the teapot, William hailed a waiter and paid the bill. Following a little bow, the waiter left.
Turning to Lily, William suggested, “Let’s take a look inside.”
“Can’t wait.” Lily stood, holding her purse and hat in her hands. She strode a step ahead of William with the enthusiasm of an adventurer about to visit a foreign land for the first time.
William towered over Lily as he leaned forward and opened the door for her. As he followed her, she reached back and grabbed his arm.
“My golly. William Lyons, in my 26 years I’ve never…” she gasped as they
entered the lobby through two massive granite columns, topped with ornate lotus capitals painted in shades of blue, red and yellow.
William watched his sister-in-law’s expression changed to one of amazement, like a giddy child in a fairyland. She stood gazing up at the ceiling with her blue eyes wide open as if afraid of missing a single detail. Then, in the centre of the magnificent Persian carpet, her tiny polished black laced boots pivoted around 360 degrees as she breathed in the opulence that adorned the hotel.
Finally, in a breathless voice, she spoke. “This is like a palace.”
“I never tire of it. Come on, there’s more.”
William was happy to be Lily’s tour guide as they explored the inner sanctum of the hotel. They moved through a series of ornate archways, each leading into a world within a world that emulated the ancient Egyptian golden age. Goddesses or kings, immortalized in stone, flanked the stairways and doorways. Date palms rose to meet painted evening skies sparkling with golden stars. Indeed, the Shepheard rivalled the proposed afterlife of Egypt’s ancient kings and was a world away from the Egypt that existed outside the doors of the hotel. William found himself thinking about when he first arrived in this totally alien world and how different it was from the one he knew. He felt a twinge of jealousy for the experience Lily was about to face.
References:
(1) Percival Stacey Waddy was an Anglican clergyman army chaplain. He served in France with the 3rd and 1st Battalions and in August 1917 sailed for Egypt. In October, he was transferred to headquarters, Desert Mounted Corps, where he became senior chaplain and honorary Major with the light horse.
behind the cupboard doors 